Archive for March, 2009

laos, the most perfectly boring place in the world

laos, or the democratic people’s republic of laos as it is officially known, is a landlocked, communist country in southeast asia. to the north is china, south is cambodia, west is thailand, and it’s eastern border with vietnam is still covered in unexploded ordinance dropped by the US in what is known as the ‘american war’.

made a finger puppet with a french mustache to amuse myself. every time i grab my beer a little part of him dies. brilliant.

update: woke up to find the finger puppet dead, he was on my left hand…

it is nice here, people are genuinely friendly, they don’t try and sell you something every time you walk by, and the beer tastes awesome. no really, my main reason for coming here was because i had heard you can rent an inner tube and float down a river where there are bars conveniently located along the entire length. yes, my entire reason for coming here was to float on a river and drink beer. little did i know that there was also gigantic monkey death swings!

well that was all just loads of fun and all until the next day when i woke up with a fever, headache, body aches, and a bit of gi trouble(eww). so i was stuck in bed for 2 days but now i think i am ok and shouldn’t die of malaria or anything. sweet.

PEOPLE!! please refridgerate your mayonaisse. freak me out.

ok ok, back to the swing, after i felt a little better i headed right back to the river because i had to get some more swing action. these things are just amazing, the platform itself is probably 40 feet above the water and the swing is connected to this brilliant piece of laos engineering(a bunch of wood haphazardly nailed together) about 60 feet up! what a thrill! it is like being a kid again when you first went on the ‘big swings’. of course half the fun of anything is the possibility of death or permanent damage and this is no exception, there were quite a few belly and back flops from those who were too drunk or uncoordinated to put their feet into the water first, and i didn’t have to ask the girl i saw this morning why she had gauze taped to her ear, ouch. the guys who work at the bars are even crazier, and if it didn’t take me an hour to upload one video i would post some crazy laos acrobatic shots, i will when i get back to thailand, promise!

the river wraps itself around a small rise forming an island, on this island sit a number of cheap all night bars, the kids are bathed in a neon glow of some drunk’s vision of apocalypse now. i’ve distanced myself from the mayhem, enjoying my bia lao in a hammock, watching the madness unfold  with some easy listening in the background. i don’t have to drink much to imagine the random banter of the bar scene i am watching silenced by a well-placed grenade.

that’s about it. like i said, the most perfectly boring place in the world. life happens, slowly, cows walk down the street, and the locals have wedding parties on the airstrip behind my guesthouse, the most physically demanding thing you can do is swim from one bar to another. i want to take so many pictures but most of them come out bad, they burn trash so the sky is always a kinda funky haze. apparently it is a lot prettier during the monsoon later in the year, much greener and clearer.  i was going to go further into the country, check out some smaller villages and temples, but after losing two days to the hanta butt virus i think i could stand staying here for a few more days, doing absolutely nothing.

a major theme of my conversation with alex today was money, specifically, what do you do with more money when life can be enjoyed with relatively nothing. it has occured to me that all paths eventually lead to NZ, what i mean by that is eventually the dream becomes more monotonous than the grind. i was doing what i had always wanted to do, hiking in one of the most beautiful places in the world. there was nobody to answer to, no schedule, just me and my backpack. but after five months, it became boring, now it could be that i just got tired of seeing the same scenery or maybe even that wasn’t what i really wanted to do, but i don’t think so. for some reason a lot of us just need to work, it isn’t for the money specifically, most have the money to enjoy themselves and they don’t need any more, but without work, how can you enjoy your time off?

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a month ago i wrote an essay titled why i don’t like talking to people

…to sum it up, most people are not worth talking to.

love your life, love your dream

in the immortal words of my idol, keanu reeves, woah! thailand is crazy, the best way i could probably describe it is being in a mexico, with trees, populated by transvestites and disease carrying insects, with 100% humidity. yeah, that about sums it up. the flight here was pretty basic, decent food and a lot of sleep. i lost 6 hours but it didn’t bother me too much and once i landed in bangkok i was off exploring. of course i had to find a place to stay first, at midnight, but like most big cities everything is open around the clock and within the hour i had a nice(if you can call a bed inside a closet nice) little room with a/c and cable. CABLE! i am talking hbo and discovery channel here. this probably doesn’t sound like much, but in nz i had a total of 4 channels at every single hostel i stayed at(a joke from flight of the conchords, but totally true). all of this for ฿320, like $10, pretty sweet.

the bus ride from the airport to the infamous khao san was a crash course in bangkok survival taught by our bus conductor. “say ‘no thank you’ to the touts or they will do things to you.” we had no idea what these things were, but i learned how to say mai chai krub really fast.

things are a bit different here than nz, life moves about 1000x faster, i have no idea how, because every time i try to keep up i nearly pass out from heat exhaustion. yet, the thais do everything i do and more in jeans and don’t even break a sweat. every citizen seems to be selling something, you can’t walk more than 20 feet down a street without being asked to come in and be fit for a suit or try out some awesome fresh squeezed oj. so when i heard about the local market scene i was pretty excited, i could only imagine what things were like in an organized setting.

my ฿8 bus ride was worth every penny, it was like being in the thunder dome with han solo piloting our crusher. he would rev his engines as old ladies got off, then chirp the tires as soon as they had a foot on the sidewalk, swerving in and out of traffic in a 2 ton death machine has never been so fun!

after telling the local tourist information guy my life story, they don’t meet people from california very often, i was off on bus 44 for the chatuchak weekend market. this was the craziest thing i have ever seen, ever. every person reading this should experience this madness once in their life, i would say a trip to bangkok would be worth it just to come to this 2 day a week affair. 32 acres, and 20,000 stalls selling anything you could possibly think of. huge statues of buddha, flying squirrels, any food you can think of, chickens(and a cock fighting ring to test them out!), art, rugs, trinkets, odds & ends, umbrellas, i’m sure somewhere in the bowels of that place they were selling children and space ships. ahhh, i am still stunned. of course, i will be going back with megan and she is taking an extra bag of stuff back to california with her.

like most big cities i was quickly overwhelmed with the madness and decided to get out, i picked the closest beach and here i am, hua hin. home of the king and tourist destination for a billion thais, swiss, and of course, ze germans. now i have been warned, i read the literature, i saw the movie, and michelle told me of such nonsense as well, but i was not ready for it. yes, i have finally arrived in a part of the world where instead of a handle on the toilet, there is a bowl of water, and instead of toilet paper, you have your hand. i am still working out the physics of the situation:

given: a=one hose with nozzle, one bucket of water with scoop

b=toilet, no flush, no toilet paper

c=a clean butt

a+b=c, solve for c, the solution must fit the constraints of a typical bathroom, i.e. no microwaves or carburetors.

and to make things even more complicated,if given a spoon and fork/chopsticks you always use the spoon to feed yourself and always use your right hand to do so, the reason being that you use your left hand to wipe your butt. this wasn’t a problem until i ordered a noodle dish and realized i had to relearn the use of chopsticks with my left hand.

my room here is way nicer, once i got rid of the bed bugs…no seriously. but, it is way larger, has an en suite bathroom, complete with bucket of water, and a freakin’ balcony, all for about $1 less than my tuna can of a room in bangkok. with all of the tourists here there aren’t many people to talk to, most of them are in large family groups and stick to themselves, but it is the people watching that keeps me entertained. there are basically six types of people walking the streets of hua hin: the sex tourist, usually some old fart with a young thai girl hanging on his arm; the expat, another old fart white guy with a thai lady, but she is usually a lot closer to his age and probably his wife; the typical european tourists; ordinary thais; the thai call girls/hookers/masseuses; and of course, the transvestites, call girls with any combination of large hands, adam’s apples, or big boobs.

i overheard a conversation going on behind me, i couldn’t really understand what was being said, but the guy had a distinct australian accent. when i turned around the aussie was in fact an old thai guy. yes, the australian accent is that bad.

so other than sitting on the beach all day long for the past five days i have been making a strong effort to go out and meet people, the longest conversation i have had was about 5 minutes with some german girls who graciously put sunblock on my back(one of the perils of traveling alone is a burnt back). but every bar i can find(and i have been looking for 5 nights) consists of about 20 call girls asking me if i want a massage, and like 5 dirty old men. i do not know where everyone is hiding, but i am getting a little tired of it. so the next stop, is somewhere quiet where i can have an interesting conversation with a normal person, drink my cheap local beer, and not have to fight off hordes of hookers trying to grab my ass. unfortunately i am honor-bound to the local ice cream parlor to complete my buy 5 get 1 free waffle cone card, and until then, i am stuck here. delicious responsibilities, life could certainly be worse.

the leader of the local communist party invited me to join in on one of their rallies, i of course declined, i don’t play soccer.

i figure i have two more days until my tan is complete and i boogie to the mekong delta and internet-less laos. until then i am going to thoroughly enjoy my remaining time in hua hin, land of boiled egg on a stick, cabaret, combination irish bar/mexican grills, meat on a stick, ambidextrous chopsticks, and pederasts. live your life, love your dream, don’t let the mosquitoes bite you.

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